Surfing and Meditation, by Sam Bleakley

book-surfing-and-meditation
Available here

Editorial Siruela recently presented us with the book Swimming in open water, an interesting introduction to the sea as a space between the physical and the spiritual for any human who immerses himself in the waters of the open sea. And this time the same publisher once again invites us to a maritime reading towards the most transcendental.

If there is a maritime activity or sport that draws more and more devotees eager to interact directly with the rough sea, that is surfing. For the layman it is about challenging the irrepressible force of the waves, for lovers of this sport it reaches that point of balance between risk, passion, challenge, life in abundance and control over the sea made natural vigor.

It is, as the story of one of these surfers announces, of feeling like a fish and a bird, a kind of consciousness camouflaged with the natural, back to the atavistic, the sensation of the human returning to the place where he came from, stripped of all convention.

Entering the tube of a wave, the surfer enjoys a period of eternity recognized as mindfulness. A glorious moment that will become peremptory seconds in which you can submit to survival at the whim of the breaking wave, which explodes, delivering the surfer to an essential fight.

A cleansing, healing process. A sense of integration from a primary state of alert against the natural danger of the sea. An ecological conscience lost by our lifestyle and that surfing recovers for our senses and also for our spirit, abandoning artificial ballast and conditioning factors.

A book in whose brilliant descriptions we can begin to feel what it is like to enter the sea in that melee, from our smallness to the ungovernable everything composed of that water that bathes the coasts of the world. A narrative that opens to us from a philosophical notion brimming with vitalism and that ends up fully justifying this sport of improvised rules by the whims of the waves.

You can now buy the book Surfing and Meditation, a fascinating essay where sport and meditation come together, by Sam Bleakley, here:

book-surfing-and-meditation
Available here
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